The Holiday Masa Pilgrimage: A Tamale Tradition at Amapola Market

As the holiday season approaches, the bustling Amapola Market in Downey, California, transforms into a pilgrimage site for families eager to uphold a cherished culinary tradition. Each year, tens of thousands flock to this beloved grocery store to purchase freshly produced masa, the essential dough for making tamales—a festive staple in many Latin American households.

On December 23, 2025, the lines at Amapola Market stretched around the parking lot as dedicated shoppers waited for hours to secure their masa. Among them was Christina Chavarria, who had already prepared nearly 200 tamales but returned for more masa, drawn by its unbeatable quality. “It’s always seasoned perfect, ready to go,” she remarked, embodying the sentiment shared by many who consider Amapola’s masa a holiday essential.

The tradition of tamale-making is a time-honored family affair, often involving multiple generations. Families gather to assemble tamales, spreading masa on dried corn husks and filling them with a variety of ingredients, both sweet and savory. Chavarria looked forward to making tamales with her mother and daughter, sharing stories and flavors that connect them to their heritage from Chihuahua, Mexico.

Rolando Pozos, CEO of Amapola Market, emphasizes the importance of this holiday ritual, referring to it as the annual “masa pilgrimage.” He feels a deep responsibility to ensure that families have a memorable Christmas, a sentiment echoed by loyal customers who have relied on Amapola’s masa for decades. The market has become a beacon for those seeking quality masa, with some customers traveling from as far as Bakersfield or Las Vegas, often arriving hours before dawn.

The significance of masa at Amapola Market cannot be overstated. In 2016, a mishap involving the wrong type of corn nearly derailed the holiday season for many. Customers expressed their discontent, claiming their tamales wouldn’t cook properly, leading the store to sever ties with the supplier and commit to maintaining high standards.

Pozos, who took over the market five years ago, is not only focused on quality but also on keeping prices stable amid inflationary pressures. He is a familiar face to regulars, often seen greeting customers in Spanish and demonstrating tamale-making techniques on local television. For families like Melissa Perkins’, who have been patrons for nearly 30 years, Amapola’s masa is a trusted choice. Perkins noted that her family’s tamale-making operation has expanded to include nearly two dozen relatives, showcasing the communal spirit of this tradition.

The masa offerings at Amapola Market are diverse, catering to various tastes with prepared options for savory tamales, such as pork and chile, along with sweet varieties like pineapple and strawberry. The masa is also versatile enough to be used for tortillas and champurrado, a thick Mexican hot chocolate.

To meet the holiday demand, Amapola’s employees begin production as early as 3 a.m., ensuring that fresh masa is available for eager customers. The process involves grinding cooked corn in large industrial mixers, combining it with salt and lard, and expertly packaging it for sale. This efficiency is crucial, especially as families arrive in droves, some even camping overnight to secure their masa.

As the sun rises over Downey, the atmosphere is filled with excitement and nostalgia. Families like Giselle Salazar’s have embraced the tradition, passing it down through generations. Salazar and her relatives, bundled in blankets, waited in line with their carts filled with masa, ready to carry on the legacy of tamale-making.

Mark Monroy, who drove 1.5 hours from Riverside with his daughter Avery, reflects on the significance of this journey. For him, the experience of making tamales is more than just a culinary task; it’s a way to create lasting memories and uphold traditions that transcend material gifts. “You can have a little bit of presents or maybe not even any presents for certain years, but you’ll always have a tamale to unwrap,” he shared.

As families continue to gather and celebrate the season, Amapola Market stands as a testament to the power of tradition, community, and the simple joy of sharing a meal together. The masa pilgrimage is more than just a shopping trip; it is a celebration of heritage, family, and the bonds that are strengthened through the act of cooking and sharing food.